ON1 Photo Raw 2018

Hello Lighthouse Camera Club Members.
On  Wed March 28 at 6pm at the North Palm Beach Library Steve will a demo of ON1 Software and introduction to the powerful features within ON1 Photo Raw 2018.

If your interested in getting ON1 LCC members get 15% off the purchase of ON1 Photo Raw 2018.
Use code: ONONE15 when you check out.
https://www.on1.com/products/photo-raw/

Last Nights Learning Session

Hello LCC members,

Last night we had a great learning session with 27 members in attendance.

The subjects we covered were:

  • Basic camera modes
  • Camera handling and the use of tripods
  • Shutter speed, aperture, ISO and composition basics

For all who attended those were not able to attend, here are some links to some of the subjects we talked about last night.

https://lighthousecameraclub.com/2017/04/23/camera-modes-for-beginners-shutter-priority-and-aperture-priority/

https://lighthousecameraclub.com/2014/09/20/exposure-triangle/

https://lighthousecameraclub.com/2014/09/14/iso-what-is-it/

https://lighthousecameraclub.com/2014/09/07/f-stop-what-does-is-do/

If you have further questions let me know lighthousecameraclub@gmail.com

Steve

On1 PhotoRaw 2018 Before and After Example

Hello LCC members,

Several members have been asking about On1 Photo Raw 2018 and have requested a before and after image example.

Here we go!

This is the RAW capture Meta Data.

What is Meta Data? Meta Data is the cameras recorded settings at time of image capture and looks like this.

The Meta data important stuff is toward the bottom of this panel which shows. Exposure 0.3sec at f29 Focal, length 20mm, ISO 50, Flash Did not fire, Canon 5D Mark II, Sigma 12-24mm

NOTE: What the meta data does not show is the focus information which is: Manual Focus set to 1meter (3-Feet) which is how 99% of all my wide-angle landscape/seascape photo are captured. On a trip-pod of course.

Here is the Straight Outta Camera raw Image.

Here are the post processing steps I used  in ON1 PhotoRaw 2018

Notes are in screen capture caption below each capture

First step was to open the image in the Develop Module and make the adjustments as indicated in the screen shot above.

Next step was to move to the Effects Module making the list of adjustments below.

Haze Reduction

Sharpened slightly with the Fix Focus Preset

 

Next were a couple of color adjustments

Fall Preset to warm the image up a bit and bring out the yellow and orange tones.

Sky preset to bring out the blue in the sky

Increase Color preset to increase overall image colors

Tone Enhancer with Clarity Preset as you can see by the opacity slider this was a very small adjustment. You have to be careful with this adjustment because Tone Enhancer is in short a Contrast adjustment. If you add too much run the risk of making the image will actually loose some clarity.

Final adjustment was to bring up the light on the beach. The HDR Look panel does a great job with this. I used the Natural Preset and only lightly applied it. If you use too much you run the risk of glow and halo around clouds and other objects in an image. But, heck you may want that look and that is ok to. Remember you are the artist and your photo is an expression of your vision.

In the final steps I used the Eraser Tool to remove sensor dust and unwanted whispy clouds that I felt were a distraction.

Then I cropped a very small portion off the top and straitend the horizon line.

Here is the final image

 

Here is the before and after side by side.

 

If you have questions or comments let me know.

Steve

 

 

Quick Lightroom Tip For Image Export

Hi LCC members,

The images for the monthly theme slide shows much be sent sized as 1200px on the long side and 72DPI

I also highly suggest when you post your images online this size should also be used.

Here is a screen shot of the Lightroom export panel with the proper size settings.

If you have more questions please leave them in the comment field below.

Thanks,

Steve

Why Post Process? Part 3

Hello LCC members,

If you missed  Part 1 This is the link

If you missed Part 2 This is the link

In this post I will show an example of using bracketed photos to create a HDR image.

I know, you may be saying HDR looks awful there is a glow around the edges and the colors look like a cartoon.

Yes, it can look that way if that is what the photographers artistic intentions are and that’s ok. I myself do not like my images to look like a cartoon but keep an open mind when viewing others work.

The first step is to set your camera to aperture priority there a post here aperture priority.

The second step set your camera to bracket exposure if you do not know how to you will need to consult your camera manual. Photomatix Pro suggests a bracket of 3 shots spaced at -2 0 +2

But, if your are using a camera that supports 1/3 Stop increments. I suggest between 5 and 9 shots spaced 1/3 stops apart.

Yes, by all means shoot in RAW not JPG

With your camera on a tripod shoot away.

Heres an example that is 5 shots spaced 1/3 stop ( -2/3 -1/3  0  +1/3  +2/3 )

Click on the gallery below ↓ to view the images larger.

 

Below ↓ is the result out of Photomatix Pro

No other adjustment have been made yet other than blending the exposures with Photomatix Pro.

 

Below  ↓ is the result out of Aurora HDR

In this image look at the foamy tide line  front of image center. Aurora did not do as good a job de-ghosting the image. This is why there are two partial foamy lines in front of the main one.

 

I decided to use the image blended by Photomatix Pro in this case because of little to no ghosting.

I then sent the image to ON1 Raw and used the effects module.

Below ↓ is the result out of ON1 Raw

The Effects used were Dynamic Contrast, Sharpening, Clarity and a small touch of Grunge.

If any members are interested in a class or a demo of post processing please let me or one of the other club board members know.

Steve

Comments or questions please leave them below.