Quick Lightroom Tip For Image Export

Hi LCC members,

The images for the monthly theme slide shows much be sent sized as 1200px on the long side and 72DPI

I also highly suggest when you post your images online this size should also be used.

Here is a screen shot of the Lightroom export panel with the proper size settings.

If you have more questions please leave them in the comment field below.

Thanks,

Steve

Why Post Process? Part 3

Hello LCC members,

If you missed  Part 1 This is the link

If you missed Part 2 This is the link

In this post I will show an example of using bracketed photos to create a HDR image.

I know, you may be saying HDR looks awful there is a glow around the edges and the colors look like a cartoon.

Yes, it can look that way if that is what the photographers artistic intentions are and that’s ok. I myself do not like my images to look like a cartoon but keep an open mind when viewing others work.

The first step is to set your camera to aperture priority there a post here aperture priority.

The second step set your camera to bracket exposure if you do not know how to you will need to consult your camera manual. Photomatix Pro suggests a bracket of 3 shots spaced at -2 0 +2

But, if your are using a camera that supports 1/3 Stop increments. I suggest between 5 and 9 shots spaced 1/3 stops apart.

Yes, by all means shoot in RAW not JPG

With your camera on a tripod shoot away.

Heres an example that is 5 shots spaced 1/3 stop ( -2/3 -1/3  0  +1/3  +2/3 )

Click on the gallery below ↓ to view the images larger.

 

Below ↓ is the result out of Photomatix Pro

No other adjustment have been made yet other than blending the exposures with Photomatix Pro.

 

Below  ↓ is the result out of Aurora HDR

In this image look at the foamy tide line  front of image center. Aurora did not do as good a job de-ghosting the image. This is why there are two partial foamy lines in front of the main one.

 

I decided to use the image blended by Photomatix Pro in this case because of little to no ghosting.

I then sent the image to ON1 Raw and used the effects module.

Below ↓ is the result out of ON1 Raw

The Effects used were Dynamic Contrast, Sharpening, Clarity and a small touch of Grunge.

If any members are interested in a class or a demo of post processing please let me or one of the other club board members know.

Steve

Comments or questions please leave them below.

 

Why Post Process? Part 2

Hello LCC members,

Here is Part 2 if you did not see Part 1 here’s the link

In this post I will show you examples of my workflow with short explanations.

To start off here is a RAW image Straight Outta Camera “SOC”

Technical Info, for those that need to know : Camera Sony A6500 ISO 100, 16mm , f22, 1/8 sec Handheld, Low Perspective


The first thing I did to the image was straighten and crop it.

The image is still in RAW some photographers like to do the crop and straighten as a last step but you can do this in any order you want to there are no rules. This is your art and vision for your image.


Next step is to use either Lightroom or other software to process the RAW photo.

TIP: Camera manufacturers typically bundle software to process RAW files. It was in the box with the manual either a DVD or a link to the website in the manual to download software.

The software I used on this photo was ON1 Photo RAW 2017

Here is the photo after processing

In On1 Effects I used the following Dynamic Contrast, Sharpen, Clarity and Color

 

 

Heres the Before and After

If you have any questions or would like the club to have a class on this or other post processing software let us know.

In my next post I will show examples using HDR techniques and will explain it from start to finish.

Steve

Why Post Process? Part 1

Hello LCC members,

Why Post Process?

Because your camera is not perfect at recreating a faithful scene. This is a fact due to the Dynamic Range of the camera.

Many years ago “well not that many” we used film to capture photos and film was not perfect either. That is why photographers like Ansel Adams would spend many hours dodging, burning to create the final photograph. The final print was the photographers vision true to who? Yes, that’s right the photographer. There are also many other things of course like composition but that has already been discussed in other posts.

The posts can be found here PhotographyTips and Tricks

Now in the age of digital our cameras do a much better job at analyzing the scene for proper exposure. The camera does whatever the programmer has put into the cameras little brain. This is why if you shoot with Nikon the photos straight outta camera “SOC” will look different than say Canon, Sony, Fuji and all these will look different than each other “SOC”. Why because of proprietary programming code.

If you like the images you get without processing them that’s great then you don’t need to read any further.

So, your still reading?

Ok, here we go.

The first thing you should do if you want to take control over your images.

Shoot in RAW if your camera has this option, which is the digital equivlant to a film negative.

Then you must post process the image, to us film terms develop your image

The options vary, here is a list of software

  • Adobe Lightroom which you can buy and pay monthly subscription fee. (PC and Mac)

TIP: If you sign up with 500PX  you can get a Lightroom & Photoshop subscription for a discounted rate.

 

  • On1 software which is you buy and there is no subscription fee. (PC and Mac)
  • Topaz just released Topaz Studio. Versions for PC and Mac
  • MacFun has Luminar. (Mac Only at this time – PC version available soon)
  • Corel After Shot Pro (PC Only)

For Standalone or Plugin HDR Processing

In my next post I will talk about what I use to post process and will show some examples.

Remember the theme for June 2017 is Photographers Choice “yes, that means any subject you want”!

Steve

If you have any comments or questions let me know.